• Truck Camper- a camper shell unit that is affixed to the bed or chassis of a pickup truck.
• Folding Camper-also known as a pop-up, a light-weight unit with sides that collapse for towing and storage. Suitable for towing by many vehicles.
• Travel Trailer- also known as a caravan, a unit with rigid sides designed to be towed by some larger vehicles with a bumper or frame hitch.
• Teardrop Trailer-a compact, lightweight travel trailer that resembles a teardrop
• Hybrid Trailer-a blend between a travel trailer and a folding (tent) trailer. One type has rigid sides and pull-out tent sections (usually beds) while another type’s top section of walls and its roof can be lowered over its bottom section to reduce its height for towing.
• 5th Wheel Trailer-designed to be towed by a pickup or medium duty truck equipped with a special hitch called a fifth wheel coupling.
• Park Model-This is a standard travel trailer that is not self contained. It is designed for park camping only, and while it is easily moved from site to site, as a normal trailer is (this is NOT a “mobile home”) it is not capable of “dry camping” as it does not have any water storage tanks; it must be used with hookups.
• Toter-home - an uncommon term indicating a motor home built around a semi truck chassis (such as a Freight liner). This type of motor home allows the pulling of large and heavy trailers.
• Toy Hauler-a motor home, 5th wheel or travel trailer, it is designed to be part living space, and part garage for storing things such as motorcycles and ATV’s.
• Class A-constructed on either a commercial truck chassis, a specially designed motor vehicle chassis, or a commercial bus chassis.
• Class B-built using a conventional van, to which either a raised roof has been added or had the back replaced by a low-profile body (compared to a Class C).
• Class C - built on a truck chassis with an attached cab section, which is usually van based, but may also be pickup truck based or even large truck (freightliner) based. They are characterized by a distinctive cab-over bunk.

Eight Tips for Success

1. First time buyers (and frugal 2nd time buyers) should always buy secondhand. RVs are just like cars and they depreciate a lot in the first few years.
2. Spend a lot of time investigating models, floorplans, etc. Don’t let a high-pressure salesman convince you that there’s “only one” as good as the one you are looking at.
3. When possible, keep your eyes out for RVs being sold by older folks. I’ve seen many GREAT deals in the paper where a nearly-new RV is being sold at a bargain price because a spouse died or has become sick and the couple is no longer traveling.
4. When checking out your new RV, ask the seller to demonstrate that all the features work. Make sure the fridge, stove, awning, toilets, water pump, etc. are working.
5. Look inside closets, cabinets, etc. and check for roof leaks. Water leaks cause dry rot in the walls and framing of an RV and can be terribly expensive to repair. Leaks are usually pretty evident by discolored patches in the walls and/or ceiling.
6. If you aren’t sure about what kind of rig you want, then rent first. Although RV rentals are expensive (around $100/day), it’s much cheaper than buying something you hate.
7. When you find a rig you like, find out the blue book value of it. Then bargain, bargain, bargain!
8. If you live in a colder area, do your RV shopping in the fall when the camping season is over. Many RV owners and dealers are looking to offload their rigs cheaper, since there isn’t much demand for camping in the winter months in many areas.

These tips are provide by The Dollar Stretcher

• 5th Wheel
• Travel Trailer
• Folding Camping Trailers

• look at Class A(diesel)
• Look at Class A(gasoline)